Amazon Order Codes
Radio Frequency-Reducing Products
Network Powerline Adapters
A network powerline adapter allows you to bring Internet service into a room that is not near a router. It uses the electrical circuits in walls to bring the Internet to distant rooms without WiFi (don’t forget to turn off the WiFi on your computer). It comes with two adapters per box. They are interchangeable, meaning either adapter can be the mother unit connected to the router with an Ethernet cable, which is supplied with the adapters. The other unit goes in any room where you want Internet.
I recommend the TP-Link AV1000 model, linked to below. It has speeds up to 1,000 Mbps (1 Gbps). Compact design. Single Ethernet port at the bottom of each unit.
Note: Network powerline adapters have one drawback. They generate dirty electricity. I have found that plugging a Greenwave dirty electricity filter into the same outlet cuts the dirty electricity down almost to the level that it would be without the network adapter plugged in. Order Greenwave filters by clicking here. You will also need a tap cube in order to plug the network adapter, Ethernet grounding adapter grounded plug, and Greenwave filter all into the same electrical outlet. Available from Amazon by clicking here.
If you need two Ethernet ports on the network powerline adapter unit located where you use your computer, choose the TP-Link AV2000 Powerline Adapter linked to below. Each unit contains two data ports on the bottom of each adapter to allow up to two Ethernet cables to be plugged in at once, thereby eliminating the need for a data switch in the room where the remote adapter is plugged in. The data transmission speed is also twice the speed of the AV1000 network adapters listed above. The AV2000 Powerline Adapter sends data at 2,000 Mbps. You will also have a pass-through electrical outlet on the front, so you don’t lose an outlet. This model is more expensive, costing just under $100, but you get these extra features and a faster speed. You will need to connect the other AV2000 unit to your router to get these faster speeds (two 6-foot unshielded Ethernet cables come with the pair of network adapters). You can, however, also use AV1000 network adapters (linked to above) elsewhere in the house, which will deliver up to 1,000 Mbps of data speed from each adapter, which is the speed they are designed to provide.
If you want to use one of these network power line adapters as a wireless extender in a remote part of the house to provide WiFi coverage from a location that is far from where you sit, stand or sleep, order the following kit from Amazon where one of the units has WiFi. This version provides download speeds up to 1000 Gbps. It retails new for $79.99. (A faster model is available in the next item below this one):
A faster model, providing download speeds up to 1,300 Gbps, is available here. It retails new for $119.99:
I offer two standalone wireless desktop access point (WAP) models below, providing download speeds of either 1,000 or 2,000 Mbps. Each unit will need an Ethernet cable to directly bring Internet data to it, in contrast to the wireless access points listed above that are built into a powerline Adapter (that uses electric circuits as the path to get Internet to the distant wireless access point (WAP)).
With the models of WAP below, the Internet stream must be provided through an Ethernet cable connected either to a data port in your wall as part of a Local Area Network (LAN), meaning, a network of Ethernet cables in walls, or through a MoCA unit, which uses the house’s coaxial cable network as its path to bring Internet to the distant room where the WAP is being located (see below for MoCA ordering information):
For a Wireless Access Point with a faster throughput speed of up to 2,000 Mbps, order the model below:
Another choice to send Ethernet over wires is to use a MoCA unit, from the Multimedia Over Caoaxial Alliance. This uses your house’s existing coaxial cable network, normally used for TV, to send Internet from the room with the router to any other room in the house that has a working coaxial cable. That cable must be networked with the one in the room with the router. You can use a coaxial cable splitter to send data to a TV in the same room, as well as send Internet data between rooms. Coaxial cable is shielded so there should be no dirty electricity (at least not the electric field component). Therefore, those people with electrical sensitivity should do okay with this technology, but if you are EHS, we always suggest that you try it first to make sure you don’t react to it.
Here is a single MoCA unit, the goCoax MoCA 2.5 Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax. It provides a fast 2.5 Gbps download speed at all MoCA devices that you may use on the same coaxial network. IMPORTANT: You will need to purchase two of these units in order to get Internet from the router in one room to the laptop/desktop, tablet or smart phone you are using in another room:
Here is a pair (2 pack) of MoCA units, 2.0 Network, 1 Gbps from ScreenBeam (previously Actiontec); other options for network and download speed are available at this site:
If you need a short, one-foot coaxial cable to connect the splitter you get in the box with the pair of MoCA adapters to a wall coaxial cable jack or to another splitter, purchase a one-foot coaxial cable here:
Shielded, Grounded Ethernet Cables
A large selection of shielded, grounded Ethernet cables is available here. As an example, a wide choice of lengths and colors for Cat 7 shielded, grounded Ethernet cables are available here:
Tera Grand – Premium CAT7 Double Shielded 10 Gigabit 600MHz Ethernet Patch Cable for Modem Router LAN Network – Built with Gold Plated & Shielded RJ45 Connectors (Many choices available for length and color)
Another suggested choice is the item below, where you can choose from among many different lengths for a shielded, grounded Cat 6 Ethernet cable, available in blue or black. This particular link brings up a 50 foot cable, but scroll down to “Size” to choose the length you want:
Why would you need shielded, grounded Ethernet cables rather than regular, plastic Ethernet cables? When you disable the WiFi on your laptop, iPad or iPhone, you get rid of one type of EMF, namely radio frequencies. In order to then get on the Internet, you need to connect your device to an Ethernet cable (if your laptop does not have still an Ethernet port), using an adapter when necessary. Those adapters are available below.
However, you end up swapping one type of EMF, radio frequencies, for another type of EMF, namely, AC electric fields when you hold a device that is connected to an ungrounded Ethernet cable tethered to an ungrounded router, hub/data switch, or Ethernet port in a wall. In order to avoid these electric fields, use a shielded, grounded Cat-6 or Cat-7 Ethernet cable.
Important: You will also need to order an Ethernet grounding adapter kit from Electrahealth.com, shown at right, and plug it into the Ethernet cable in order to avoid harmful AC electric fields when you hold your iPhone or iPad. This electric field comes up the cord of an ungrounded Ethernet cable (most Ethernet cables are ungrounded, noted by the plastic plugs at each end). The Ethernet Grounding Adapter Kit comes with a short, six-inch grounded Ethernet cable (with metal plugs at each end) that you first plug into the Ethernet jack or port in the room (an open Ethernet data port on a router or data hub/switch, an Ethernet cable you have brought in from another room, or a data port in the wall). Plug the green cord attached to the grounding coupler into a properly grounded outlet or surge protector (confirmed with a circuit tester, ordered from Amazon below). Then plug the other end of the short grounded Ethernet cord into one end of the grounded metal coupler. Then plug a longer grounded Ethernet cable into the other end of the coupler and run that longer Ethernet cable to the Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter. The adapter is then plugged into the Lightning port of your iPhone.
Additional ways to avoid electric fields include plugging the AC power cord into your Mac laptop, as long as it has the cord with the three-pronged plug. You can also use a USB Ground Cord from LessEMF and plug that into a USB-A port on your Mac or PC laptop (although power cords with a three-pronged plug also ground a PC laptop). You can also order a USB Grounding Adapter from Electrahealth by clicking here. This adapter provides a USB port on the adapter, so you don’t lose one when you plug in this adapter to ground your laptop. Lastly, you can also plug a USB Ground Cord or USB Grounding Adapter into the USB port of your router (if it has one), and none of the Ethernet cables plugged into that newly grounded router will carry electric fields, even if the cables are un-grounded.
If you want to minimize your cords and be more mobile, you can use the correct adapter for your device and a long Ethernet cord, plugged into an Ethernet grounding adapter kit. However, in order for the grounding adapter kit to work and eliminate electric fields, that Ethernet cable needs to be shielded and grounded. The way you know your Ethernet cable is shielded and grounded is the plugs at both ends are metal, not plastic. A regular, ungrounded Ethernet cable with plastic plugs will not ground the laptop. Shielded, grounded Ethernet cables are available here.
If you use the hardwired workaround for your iPad or iPhone and you only use a Lightning to Ethernet adapter and Ethernet grounding adapter kit (instead of the older hardwired workaround with the powered USB hub), you must use a shielded, grounded Ethernet cable, not a regular plastic Ethernet cable, in order to avoid electric fields.
Finally, electrically sensitive people use shielded, grounded Ethernet cables to avoid dirty electricity and even radio frequency EMFs that can travel on unshielded Ethernet cables to a slight degree, but enough for these folks to feel them.
Adapter for Newer Macbooks and PC Laptops with USB-C ports (USB-C to Ethernet Adapter)—Also known as “Thunderbolt3” ports on MacBooks
The newest MacBooks and PC laptops only have one or more USB-C ports for charging, video and data exchange (also known as “Thunderbolt3” ports on MacBooks). You will not find any standard USB-A or Thunderbolt(1) ports as you did on previous MacBook or PC models. Many functions on the newest MacBooks are now wireless.
To stay hardwired for Internet access, order a USB-C to Ethernet adapter by clicking on either of the text links or icons below. These adapters convey grounding from a grounded, shielded Ethernet cable through to the MacBook or ChromeBook computer that you plug it into:
An alternative USB-C to Ethernet adapter is available below. This adapter also conveys grounding from a grounded, shielded Ethernet cable through to the computer:
These USB-C to Ethernet adapters will allow you to directly connect an Ethernet cable to your MacBook through one of the USB-C ports.
You will, however, still need to also use an Ethernet grounding adapter kit from Electrahealth.com in order to ground the grounded, shielded Ethernet cable that you plug into the USB-C to Ethernet adapter. Plug the short Ethernet cable that comes with the Ethernet grounding adapter directly into the source of your Internet, whether it is a router, Ethernet hub/switch, network (powerline) adapter, or data port at the wall. Plug the other end of the short Ethernet cable into either end of the coupler of the Ethernet grounding adapter.
Then plug one end of your grounded, shielded Ethernet cable into the other end of the coupler and plug the other end of the grounded, shielded Ethernet cable into the USB-C to Ethernet adapter at the laptop. You need to ground the Ethernet grounding adapter by plugging the three-pronged, grounded plug at the end of the grounding cord (that is soldered to the side of the metal coupler) into a nearby electrical outlet that you know is properly grounded, verified by an Outlet/Receptacle Tester.
Using this Ethernet grounding adapter kit helps you to avoid electric fields when you touch your MacBook laptop. By using this adapter and a grounded, shielded Ethernet cable, you can unplug your laptop power cord and be mobile on battery while still using an Ethernet cable. If you did not use this Ethernet grounded adapter and grounded, shielded Ethernet cable, you would be swapping one type of EMF, namely radio frequencies (by shutting off the WiFi), for another. This is because you would be exposed to high and unhealthy electric field EMFs when touching your laptop, reported to cause fatigue and an agitated feeling. This happens to many people who try to help themselves by shutting off their laptop’s WiFi and using an Ethernet cable because the Ethernet cable is plugged at its other end into an ungrounded router or data switch at its other end. By grounding the Ethernet cable, you eliminate this electric field.
The grounded, shielded Ethernet cable that you use can be as long as you like (see here for a selection of grounded Ethernet cables of various lengths and colors).
You can also avoid electric fields by plugging the MacBook’s AC power cord into one of the other USB-C ports when you connect the Ethernet cable, provided the MacBook came with the larger round power cord with the grounded, three-pronged plug. If not, order that cord here.
Some of the newest Macbooks only have a single USB-C port for charging, video and data exchange. In that case, use the AmazonBasics USB 3.1 Type-C to 3 Port USB Hub with Ethernet Adapter listed above by clicking here. Then order the Ethernet grounding adapter kit from Electrahealth.com and plug it into a shielded, grounded Ethernet cable in order to avoid harmful electric fields.
Adapters for Macbook to Ethernet (Thunderbolt to Ethernet Adapter)
Connect an Ethernet cable to older Macbook laptop models with a Thunderbolt-to-Ethernet adapter. Newer Macbooks do not have an Ethernet port like older, thicker Mac and PC laptops do. Also, this adapter provides grounding to your Mac laptop when you work on it, avoiding harmful electric field EMFs. You must, however, also use a grounded Ethernet cable, linked to above, as well as an Ethernet grounding adapter kit from Electrahealth.com, also linked to above.
Adapter for Older Macbook to Ethernet (Apple USB Ethernet Adapter)
Connect an Ethernet cable to your older Macbook laptop with a USB-to-Ethernet adapter. Use this adapter if your MacBook does not have an Ethernet port and if it is older than the models that started using a Thunderbolt port. This adapter provides grounding to your Mac laptop when you work on it, avoiding harmful electric field EMFs. You must, however, also use a grounded Ethernet cable, linked to above, as well as an Ethernet grounding adapter kit from Electrahealth.com, linked to in the previous item above.
Adapter for Lightning-to-Ethernet (for iPads and iPhones)
You can put your iPad and iPhone into Airplane mode to avoid the radio frequency EMFs they produce, but then you cannot access the Internet (or receive a phone call or messages on your iPhone). To connect to the Internet in Airplane mode on your iPad or iPhone, you will need a Lighting-to-Ethernet adapter. (Be sure you use a grounded Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter. Otherwise you will have high electric fields when holding your iPhone or iPad–see below. The Foinnex, and Belkin model mentioned below, do provide that grounding.)
Here is the link for the Foinnex Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter:
If the Foinnex Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter, which is always my first choice because of its simplicity and reliability, is unavailable, there are two other ways to purchase this adapter. (Remember, do not substitute by buying a different brand of Lightning to Ethernet adapter other than the Foinnex model, except to purchase the Belkin model below, because any Ethernet adapter that you use to connect an Ethernet cable to a device that you hold in your hand needs to convey grounding, and only these two brands do, as far as I have measured):
The first option is the Belkin Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter shown below. I have tested this Belkin Lightning adapter and found that it provides grounding, just as the Foinnex model does (provided you also use shielded, grounded (metal-tipped) Ethernet cable and an Ethernet Grounding Adapter Kit—see below).
The second option is to order the Foinnex Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter through Amazon’s online store located in Britain. They will certainly ship to North America. Order it by clicking here. The cost is 39 British Pounds (roughly $41 USD), plus shipping to the U.S. or Canada (or wherever you live).
Important: I strongly advise that you not purchase a different Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter other than the Foinnex or Belkin models linked to above. This is because they will likely not provide grounding when you put your hands on your iPhone or iPad. That will produce high and unhealthy electric fields, which you very much want to avoid.
I have ordered and tested up to half a dozen alternative brands of Lightning adapters that looked promising. They all had metal tabs on the inside of the Ethernet port on the adapter in the photo on Amazon, which I hoped would convey grounding through to the laptop.
Unfortunately, every one of them failed to convey grounding and I had to send each of them back. I measured high electric fields using my body voltage meter when I held the metal end of the adapter that would plug into the Lightning port on an iPhone or iPad.
If you have your own body voltage meter, you can try to find an alternative Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter on your own. If the reading goes down when you hold the metal end of the adapter, or when you plug the adapter into an iPhone or iPad and you put your hands on it, then use the adapter and please tell me about it so I can offer it as an affordable alternative when the Foinnex is not available through Amazon in North America. (Foinnex wrote me a couple of years ago that Amazon is their only retail outlet in the U.S. and Canada). Send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org if you find a workable alternative adapter.
If you purchase the components listed above in order to use your iPhone or iPad without WiFi or other radio frequency EMFs, be sure to put your iPhone or iPad into Airplane mode and make sure that WiFi, Bluetooth and Cellular Data are all OFF. If you are unable to access the Internet on Safari, it may be because you “hot-wired” the Ethernet cable. That means, you plugged it into the Lightning port (using the adapter) while the phone was already on. The phone is not recognizing the Ethernet cable in that case.
The solution is to turn your iPhone or iPad off and then restart it with the Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter already plugged in. Now it should recognize it. Relaunch Safari. You will always see a dialogue box that says you must enable WiFi in order to access the Internet. Just ignore it and click “Okay”. The web page you are accessing should load in Safari.
This hardwired workaround works for newer iPads and iPhones. In the past, it did not work for Android cell phones and tablets. However, now you can access the Net on newer Android/Google devices using adapters with OTG technology. See the next section for details.
With the Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter shown above, you cannot receive telephone calls on your cell number when the iPhone is in Airplane mode, nor can you get texts from non-iPhone users (the green ones). You can, however, receive blue iMessage texts from other iPhone users if you have an older model iPhone. Newer iPhones (version 10) do not apparently support sending and receiving blue iMessages in Airplane mode, nor accessing Instagram.
There are workarounds for receiving phone calls and texts when using this hardwired solution. Multiple apps provide phone service over the Internet, such as iCall, Facetime, WhatsApp, Skype and Google. You can also send and receive texts to all smartphone users, iPhone and non-Apple alike, using WhatsApp and other apps. (You can also call-forward incoming cellular calls to your corded landline telephone number and you can access texts on a hardwired computer in your home, including iMessaging on a MacBook and iPad.)
You can reliably use the adapter listed above for most iPhone and iPad models to successfully get on the Internet with your device in Airplane mode. You should see the word “Ethernet” appear in the Settings mixed in with Airplane Mode, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. If the Internet will not load on your browser, restart your device with the adapter plugged in and you should then get on the Internet, at least on your browser. (Unfortunately, there are reports that some applications are no longer supported using this hardwired workaround on new (10 and 11), and even some older, iPhone models, such as i-Messaging and Instagram).
Bear in mind that high electric field EMFs occur when you hold your iPhone or iPad in your hand and use an ungrounded Ethernet cable (with plastic ends) or the socket for the Ethernet cable on the Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter is plastic, as so many of them are. Those electric fields come through an Ethernet cable connected to an ungrounded source such as a router or network adapter with an ungrounded, two-pronged electrical plug, or an RJ-45 data port in the wall of a house with a Local Area Network (LAN) that has Ethernet cables in walls that are connected to a router or switch that is not grounded. (You can ground routers and switches if they have a USB port using a USB Ground Cord. You can also order a USB Grounding Adapter from Electrahealth by clicking here.)
When you do have a Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter that successfully grounds the iPhone or iPad, you will also need an Ethernet grounding adapter kit and shielded/grounded Ethernet cable, discussed in the next item. That will ensure you avoid high electric fields when using your iPhone or iPad without radio frequency EMFs from WiFi. We don’t want to swap one type of EMF for another.
Important: You will also need to order an Ethernet grounding adapter kit from Electrahealth.com, shown at right, and plug it into the Ethernet cable in order to avoid harmful AC electric fields when you hold your iPhone or iPad. This electric field comes up the cord of an ungrounded Ethernet cable (most Ethernet cables are ungrounded, noted by the plastic plugs at each end). The Ethernet Grounding Adapter Kit comes with a short, six-inch grounded Ethernet cable (with metal plugs at each end) that you first plug into the Ethernet jack or port in the room (an open Ethernet data port on a router or data hub/switch, an Ethernet cable you have brought in from another room, or a data port in the wall). Plug the white or black cord (depending upon which color you order) attached to the grounding coupler into a properly grounded outlet or surge protector (confirmed with a circuit tester, ordered from Amazon below). Then plug the other end of the short grounded Ethernet cord into one end of the grounded metal coupler. Then plug a longer grounded Ethernet cable (see next paragraph) into the other end of the coupler and run that longer Ethernet cable to the Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter listed above. The adapter is then plugged into the Lightning port of your iPhone.
One important point. Your long Ethernet cable needs to be shielded and grounded, just like the short Ethernet cable that comes with the Ethernet grounding adapter kit. You will notice that the plugs at both ends of the short Ethernet cable are metal, not plastic. If you use a regular, ungrounded Ethernet cable (with plastic plugs at both ends), you will not avoid electric fields.
Order a shielded, grounded Ethernet cable of any length from Amazon by clicking here. As an example, a wide choice of lengths and colors for Cat 7 shielded, grounded Ethernet cables are available here:
Tera Grand – Premium CAT7 Double Shielded 10 Gigabit 600MHz Ethernet Patch Cable for Modem Router LAN Network – Built with Gold Plated & Shielded RJ45 Connectors (Many choices available for length and color)
Another suggested choice is the item below, where you can choose from among many different lengths for a shielded, grounded Cat 6 Ethernet cable, available in blue or black. This particular link brings up a 50 foot cable, but scroll down to “Size” to choose the length you want:
Adapter for Android Smart Phones and Tablets
In the past, you could only connect to the Internet with your smart phone while in Airplane mode on an iPhone or iPad. Now, you can do that with Android/Google smart phones and tablets, too. Depending upon the model, you may have success using the AmazonBasics USB-C to Ethernet adapter linked to above. I have recently had success connecting the Samsung Galaxy Note 8 smart phone to the Internet while the phone was in Airplane mode using that adapter. As with the iPhone, we could not make or receive a phone call, but we were able to get on the Internet.
I am told that in order for this workaround to be successful, your Android smart phone or tablet must have Android Marshmallow 6.0.1 installed, which was released in October 2015. Check for which version you have in Settings, then About Device or About Phone. Also, the adapter must have the so-called “OTG” technology built into its chipset. OTG means “On-The-Go”.
Even though it does not say it has OTG in the description on Amazon, I used the following USB-C-to-Ethernet adapter to successfully access the Internet with the Samsung Galaxy Note 8 mentioned above. You can see if you have the same success by ordering the following adapter. It is grounded with metal tabs on the sides of the Ethernet sleeve:
For those Android smart phone and tablet users who still have older models with the mini-USB charging port (also known as a micro-B connection), you will need a different adapter to plug in your Ethernet cable. The model shown below has the OTG technology and it has the requisite metal tabs on the sides of the Ethernet sleeve, which makes it grounded.
As with the Lightning-to-Ethernet adapter discussed in the previous item, you will need to use shielded Ethernet cables and the Ethernet Grounding Adapter Kit linked to above in order to avoid electric fields when you hold your Android phone or tablet. See above for links to these items.
Adapter for PC Laptop to Ethernet
Connect an Ethernet cable to your thin PC laptop with this adapter. For newer, thinner PC laptops without an RJ-45 Ethernet jack. Plugs into the laptop’s USB port. No driver needed (or it downloads automatically). It is plug and play.
Multi-port USB-C Hubs for Type C MacBooks, Laptops and iPad Pro
Here are two multi-port USB-C Hubs to connect multiple devices to your MacBook Pro/Air or iPad Pro (with USB-C charging port). This can include connecting to the Internet in a hardwired way with an Ethernet cable for a WiFi-free Internet connection while at the same time charging your device. You can also plug in any other device, such as a headphone, using a standard USB-A plug. The HyperDrive hub even has a 3.5 mm Audio Jack.
Note: To keep the hub and therefore the device you hold in your hand grounded, you will need to use the USB-C 30Watt Power Adapter linked to below, and then use an Apple Power Adapter Extension Cable, also linked to below, to ground the Apple 30W Power Adapter. You cannot ground the MacBook or iPad through an Ethernet Ground Adapter and grounded, shielded Ethernet cable (with metal ends) because the Ethernet port on these two hubs has a plastic lining and has no metal tabs inside the port to contact the metal tip of the Ethernet cable. However, the combination of the Apple 30W Power Adapter and Apple Power Adapter Extension Cable will ground the hub and therefore, the device you are holding or putting your hands on.
Choose either the Twelve South StayGo | USB-C Hub for Type C MacBooks, Laptops and iPad Pro, shown below:
Or the HyperDrive USB-C Hub Adapter for iPad Pro, MacBook Pro/Air, Power 9-in-1 USBC Hub Dongle, shown below:
Power Adapter for Mac Laptop to Ground the AC Power Cord
Mac laptop AC power cords that use the two-pronged adapter with the two blades that swing out will produce high AC electric field EMFs when you touch the laptop. This adapter is plugged into one corner of the white in-line transformer box so you can plug the transformer box directly into a surge protector or wall AC outlet.
To avoid this, you need the cord that came in the box with the laptop (at least up until recently) with the three-pronged plug at the end. Pull the two-pronged adapter off the white transformer box (and throw it away). Slide the end of the grounded AC power cord onto the corner of the white transformer box where the adapter slid off of, and now your Mac laptop is grounded. You won’t get tired anymore when working on your laptop like you might have before when it was ungrounded.
If your Mac laptop did not come with this grounded cord or you have lost it, you can order one from Amazon here:
Power Adapter for new iPads and iPhones to Ground the AC Power Cord
The following Apple 30W USB-C Power Adapter allows you to ground newer iPhones and iPads that use a USB-C port at the bottom to plug your charging cable into. If you order this Apple 30W USB-C Power Adapter, you will then need the Apple Power Adapter Extension Cable listed in the item above, which has a three-pronged plug to ground the device you hold in your hand
Adapter to Connect USB-A Ground Cord to USB-C Port
This adapter allows you to ground any device that has a USB-C port when using a USB Ground Cord, such as the model sold by LessEMF or by Electrahealth. This is a USB-A female to USB-C male adapter. Two adapters come in the pack. This adapter is compatible with MacBook Pro and Air.
Modem without WiFi
Here is a modem that does not transmit a WiFi signal. Since it doesn’t have a router inside of it, which is why it has no WiFi, you will need to purchase a separate router, such as one of the router models listed in the next item.
This modem is approved by Spectrum (formerly Time Warner), Cox, Comcast and most other cable companies. It is not compatible with Frontier’s FIOS or ATT’s U-Verse, which are Internet services provided by your local telephone company.
Purchasing the Surfboard modem below means you don’t have to pay the cable company the monthly fee to rent the modem they give you, which is usually $10 per month.
Most importantly, you avoid the new public WiFi “hot spot” that now transmits from newer modem models with a built-in router that cable companies put in customer’s houses around the country. This powerful WiFi signal cannot be shut off by you, and when the cable company’s customer support turns it off for you, it reactivates itself during an update. Avoid this altogether by purchasing your own modem without a built-in router, such as the Surfboard model listed below.
The download speed is 1.4 Gbps and the color is white for the:
Routers without WiFi
Here are two routers that do not emit WiFi, because they do not have a WiFi transmitter inside them. They only provide Internet using Ethernet cables, over a so-called hardwired “Local Area Network” or LAN. Up to four computers and other devices can be plugged in to these models.
This Trendnet TW100-S4W1CA router provides speeds up to 100 Mbps. (For faster Internet throughput speeds, order the TP-Link ER605 Gigabit Router below.)
The following router provides speeds up to 1 Gigabit (1,000 Mbps):
Note: The TP-Link ER605 router does not have a USB port, meaning you cannot ground it like you can with the routers and Ethernet Switches shown below. This means you will have high electric field EMFs when you plug an ungrounded Ethernet cable into this router and then into a laptop that is on battery and therefore not grounded through it’s AC power cord. This is something most people have been unaware of up to this point. Take precautions now to be sure that the computer you put your hands upon is grounded when using a laptop with an Ethernet cable while on battery and see how much more vitality you feel.
In order to avoid the high electric fields that connecting an ungrounded Ethernet cable to the TP-Link ER605 router can create, you will need to attach a grounded AC power cord to your laptop, or connect a USB Ground Cord to a USB port on your laptop, available from LessEMF. You can also order a USB Grounding Adapter from Electrahealth by clicking here. You will also need grounded, shielded Ethernet cables (with metal ends). See above for details. Putting your hands upon a desktop computer, Mac or PC, that has a power cord with a grounded, three-pronged plug will not be a problem, because those computers are already grounded by their power cords.
If you are connecting an iPad or iPhone to this router in Airplane mode with a Lightning-to-Ethernet Adapter and an Ethernet cable, you will need to ground the Ethernet cable using an Ethernet Grounding Adapter Kit from Electrahealth.com. Also, use a grounded Ethernet cable. These items are all listed above.
Routers with WiFi on/off switch
Here are several models of routers that have WiFi with a switch to turn the 2.4 and 5.8 GHz WiFi transmitters on and off. (Note that the price you see in the link below may not be the actual price of the item as shown on the Amazon page you link to. Prices vary over time as supplies come and go.) The more expensive models will be new, while the lower priced models tend to be refurbished.
These are all standalone routers, and they all have a WiFi on/off switch. The other choices on the Amazon page that lists the model I link you to usually will not have a WiFi on/off. Therefore, don’t make substitutions once you have arrived on the Amazon item page. The only standalone router models that have a WiFi on/off switch are the six models I link you to below (there may be others on the market, but don’t assume the other choices on the page you land on will also have that switch).
Following the six router options listed below, you will find a modem/router combination model that also has a WiFi on/off switch.
Note: Please see the note below about being able to avoid potentially harmful electric fields when using the first or third router below with an Ethernet cable connected to an ungrounded laptop on battery (unplugged from a grounded AC power cord).
Note: All models below have Gigabit speed for their hardwired Ethernet connections, which is what you want (with the exception of the last standalone router choice, the TP-Link AC1200 WiFi Router (Archer A54), which is only 100 Mbps). The numbers given (N900, AC1200, N750 etc.) are for wireless speed, which is not important to us (unless you or someone else in your family will use WiFi on this router periodically and you and others who want to minimize WiFi exposure will be sitting, sleeping and standing some distance from where this router will be located).
Order any of the models below if you are primarily using it as a hardwired router and only need WiFi periodically. We also have totally non-WiFi transmitting standalone routers in the preceding section for those who know they will never use WiFi.
1) The first standalone router model with a WiFi on/off switch is the Netgear WNDR4500-100PAS N900 Dual Band Gigabit WiFi Router. New and lower priced refurbished models are available. Click on the text link or the image below to order:
2) A second option is the Netgear AC1200 Model R6230 Nighthawk router. New and lower priced refurbished models are available. Note that this router requires downloading the Netgear Nighthawk app to your computer in order to establish your Internet connection (meaning it is not plug and play) and takes time to register. Set-up is doable for anyone who is tech savvy, but very difficult for those among you who are technically-challenged. If that is you, skip this choice and choose one of the other choices on this page.
The WiFi on/off switch is on the back of the Netgear AC1200 R6230. This model does not allow grounding of shielded, grounded Ethernet cables plugged into it, but it is more affordable than the models above and below (when purchased new) that do have USB ports for grounding.
3) A third option with a WiFi on/off switch is a NETGEAR N750 Dual Band 4 Port Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (WNDR4300). New and lower priced refurbished models are available. Click on the text link or the image below to order:
The WiFi on/off switch is on the front of both the Netgear N900 and N750 models shown above. The WiFi switch has a dot in the center with two parentheses on either side of the dot, indicating a wireless transmitter.
4) Another option is the TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router (Archer A6). New and lower priced refurbished models are available. The WiFi on/off switch is on the back:
5) Another option is the TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7) . This is a Gigabit router. New and lower priced refurbished models are available. The WiFi on/off switch is likewise on the back:
6) A final standalone router option with a WiFi on/off switch is the TP-Link AC1200 WiFi Router (Archer A54). This refurbished model is affordable but only allows up to 100 Megabits per second, or Mbps throughput speed (not a Gigabit, or 1,000 Mbps as with the other models shown above). If you don’t need super fast download speeds and you are on a budget, this would be a good choice. The WiFi on/off switch is on the back:
Next, here is a modem/router combination option that is “Compatible with All Cable Providers Including Xfinity by Comcast, Spectrum, Cox | for Cable Plans Up to 300 Mbps”, according to the listing for this device on Amazon. It is the NETGEAR Cable Modem Wi-Fi Router Combo C6250.
Note: This modem/router combination unit is only for cable Internet customers. If you get your Internet service through any of the telephone companies in the U.S. (Frontier, Verizon, AT&T, CenturyLink, et. al.), you will not be allowed to swap out their modem/router with your own device. Only U.S. cable companies allow their customers to do that. If you are a cable Internet customer, you also have the option of purchasing one of the standalone routers listed above and then purchasing your own standalone Surfboard modem, listed further above. The WiFi on/off switch is the top of two buttons on the right side.
Click on the text link or the image below to order the NETGEAR Cable Modem Wi-Fi Router Combo C6250:
Remember, all of the standalone router models with WiFi on/off switches listed above have the same 1 Gbps hardwired speed (with the one exception, the TP-Link AC1200 WiFi Router (Archer A54)).
Note: The first and third routers above, the Netgear N750 WNDR4300 and N900 WNDR4500 models, have one or two built-in USB ports on the back, which allow direct grounding of all shielded, grounded Ethernet cables (with metal ends) plugged into them. You ground the router by plugging a USB Ground Cord, available from LessEMF, into the USB port provided on those two router models. You can also order a USB Grounding Adapter from Electrahealth by clicking here. Either of these adapters grounds the router.
In addition, the four Ethernet ports on the back of both models are ringed with metal sleeves with metal tabs on the insides, thereby grounding Ethernet cables that are grounded and shielded themselves and have metal ends that come in contact with the metal tabs within the sleeves of the data ports that you plug them into. (The second router option, the Netgear Nighthawk AC1200 R6230 model, also has one USB plug on the back, however, the four data ports are ringed in plastic with no metal tabs inside. Thus, there will not be grounding of any Ethernet cables plugged into them. You will need an Ethernet Grounding Adapter for each Ethernet cable you plug into this router that is then plugged into a device you put your hands on, like a laptop, tablet or smartphone.)
When you then plug a long shielded, grounded Ethernet cable into your laptop to avoid WiFi, that laptop that you put your hands onto will also be grounded. This is important in eliminating AC electric field EMFs that occur when you plug an Ethernet cable into a laptop that is on battery.
The problem is that standard Ethernet cords with plastic ends convey extremely high electric fields when you put your hands onto the keyboard of that laptop because most routers are powered with a two-pronged plug, and are therefore ungrounded. People report fatigue when touching their now ungrounded laptop for long periods of time. You have basically removed one type of EMF, radio frequencies, by shutting off WiFi and replaced it with another type of EMF, namely, electric fields because the Ethernet cable you use is ungrounded (with plastic ends).
To remedy this, you can plug the grounded AC power cord for your laptop into an outlet (if the power cord is grounded) or plug a USB Ground Cord directly into your laptop, but the USB Ground Cord or AC power cord are rather short and won’t allow you to sit far from an outlet. If you instead plug the USB Ground Cord into a USB port on the router (if it has such a port) and then plug the plug of a USB Ground Cord into a nearby properly grounded outlet or surge protector, you don’t have to run any additional cords to your laptop other than your Ethernet cable.
If you are connecting an iPad or iPhone to this router in Airplane mode with a Lightning-to-Ethernet Adapter and a grounded, shielded Ethernet cable, you will need to ground the Ethernet cable using an Ethernet Grounding Adapter Kit from Electrahealth.com.
Cable Modem that Supports both Internet and Telephone (without WiFi)
Here is a modem that provides both Interent and telephone service from the cable company without WiFi (check with your cable company to make sure they support this product):
Note: I am unable to determine whether this unit has a USB port or not, meaning I do not know if you can ground it like you can with the routers and Ethernet Switch shown above and below. This means you will have high electric field EMFs when you plug an Ethernet cable into this router and then into a laptop that is on battery.
Ethernet Data Switch (4 and 8-Port)
When you are not in the same room as the router and have more than one device, such as two computers, that need to be connected the Internet at the same time in the same room, you can use an Ethernet Data Switch to provide Internet service to those multiple computers simultaneously.
The data switch acts like an extension cord. Plug one end of a standard, ungrounded, plastic-tipped Ethernet cable into a wall Ethernet data port/jack, if one exists in your wall, or into a network power line adapter or MoCA unit or long Ethernet cable you bring down the hall (any of which will bring Internet service into the room). Then plug the other end of the Ethernet cable into the data switch, usually the #1 port on either of the models linked to below, but any port can be used (or, plug the other end of that standard Ethernet cable into an Ethernet Grounding Adapter to ground the entire data switch–see below). You then have up to four or seven more open ports (on these two models) to plug multiple Ethernet cables into. These units do not transmit WiFi. Also, the models I chose, the NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305) and the TP-Link TL-SG108 8 Port Gigabit Unmanaged Ethernet Network Switch, are both un-managed data switches and should be compatible with all MacBooks and PCs.
Note that both of these data switches have metal trim for all data ports, with metal tabs on the insides of each port to ground the metal end of a grounded, shielded Ethernet cable. Please see below for a detailed protocol to avoid potentially harmful electric fields when using these Ethernet Data Switches. That protocol will show you how to ground the entire data switch with one Ethernet Grounding Adapter.
If you need more than four ports, here is an eight-port data switch (with seven available ports):
If you need more than 8 ports, you will find links to 16- and 24-port grounded data switches in the next section.
Note: The power supply to these Ethernet Data Switches is not grounded. However, the metal trim around each of the RJ-45 Ethernet data ports and the metal tabs on either side of each port allow grounding of all Ethernet cables plugged into these switches. We provide grounding to the data switch by using an Ethernet Grounding Adapter Kit from Electrahealth. This adapter grounds the entire switch and every grounded, shielded (metal-tipped) Ethernet cable you plug into it. That way, you don’t have to purchase an Ethernet grounding adapter for each grounded, shielded (metal-tipped) Ethernet cable you plug into the data switch.
The way we ground the entire data switch is by using the following protocol: Use any standard ungrounded, plastic-tipped Ethernet cable (or a faster Cat 6A or 7 grounded one) to bring Internet to the data switch from an RF-45 data port in the wall, or from a long Ethernet cable you bring into the room from the router down the hall, or from a network power line adapter, or from a MoCA unit (in other words, from whatever source provides Internet service in the room).
However, instead of plugging that standard Ethernet cable directly into the data switch, you plug it into either end of the metal coupler of the Ethernet grounding adapter kit from Electrahealth. Then, use the short, grounded Ethernet cable that comes in the kit from Electrahealth to run Internet the rest of the way from the coupler to the data switch.
Finally, plug the three-pronged, grounded plug at the end of the ground cord that is soldered to the metal Ethernet coupler of the adapter to a properly grounded outlet. Make sure the outlet or power strip/surge protector you plug into is properly grounded by testing with an outlet tester. The outer yellow light of the tester needs to light up and be as bright as the inner yellow light. Purchase an outlet tester at a local hardware store, or from Amazon by clicking here.
Ethernet Data Switches (16 and 24-Port)
If you have a larger number of Ethernet cables going to numerous data ports throughout the house (more than eight), purchase a TP-Link 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch or a TP-Link 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, linked to below. These models have a grounded AC power cord with a three-pronged plug that grounds the entire unit (make sure you plug this into a properly grounded outlet). Metal trim around all RJ-45 data ports and metal tabs on the insides of the ports ensure that the metal ends of shielded, grounded Cat 6A or 7 Ethernet cables will be grounded when plugged into those ports.
Note: Do not purchase the newer TP-Link 16 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch, model TL-SG116, offered on the Amazon page for the TP-Link 16-Port Switch linked to below (model TL-SG1016). This is because the newer model, the TL-SG116, does not have a grounded AC power cord, while model TL-SG1016 does. Having the grounded power cord keeps the data switch grounded, which grounds all the metal-tipped grounded and shielded Ethernet cables that you plug into it.
Purchase the TP-Link 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Data Switch, model TL-SG1016, from Amazon here:
Purchase the TP-Link 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Data Switch, model TL-SG1024S, from Amazon here:
That should successfully provide grounding at each data port of a newly installed hardwired Ethernet network (in a new or remodeled house), provided you also use metal RJ-45 data ports in walls (see next item).
I have not tested these last two particular models (16- and 24-port switches) for grounding, however, they should be. Testing for reduction of electric fields as a result of using the grounded AC power cord can be verified using a body voltage meter, purchased from either Safe Living Technologies or LessEMF. When you hold the metal cylinder of the Safe Living Technologies body voltage meter or the metal door handle of the LessEMF body voltage meter in one hand, and touch the metal trim around the Ethernet ports on the back of these four data switches linked to above, the reading on the body voltage meter will go down. This is because you are doubly grounded through the metal cylinder of the body voltage meter in one hand and through the metal trim of the grounded data switch in the other hand.
That means, any Ethernet cables that you plug into these data switches will therefore be grounded (provided the AC power cord of the 16- or 24-port Ethernet data switches are plugged into a properly grounded outlet). You can also plug in a grounded Ethernet cable into any of these data switches and touch the other end of the grounded Ethernet cable, pinching the metal Ethernet plug with your forefinger and thumb while holding onto the metal cylinder or door handle of your body voltage meter. If the body voltage reading on the meter goes down, the data switch is properly grounded.
Shielded Metal RJ-45 Ethernet Data Jacks (Ports), Modular Plugs and Plates
If you install shielded, grounded Cat 6A or 7 Ethernet cables in walls, you will need to attach them to metal RJ-45 data jacks/ports.
Cat 6A Shielded Metal RJ45 Shielded Keystone Jacks are available from Amazon, package of 6, by clicking on the text link or image below (if Amazon is out of any of these items, see alternative links below the following items that take you directly to Cable Matters’ website):
You can purchase Cable Matters RJ45 Cat 6A Shielded Modular Plugs with Strain Relief Boots from Amazon, package of 50, by clicking on the text link or image below:
Finally, you can purchase matching Cable Matters Wall Plates with 1, 2, 3, 4 or 6-Port Keystone Jack Inserts in White from Cable Amazon, package of 10, by clicking on the text link or image below. The link below takes you to the four-port model, but you can choose the plate style that matches the number of data ports (Ethernet and/or telephone, or even coax) you intend to install at each location:
If Amazon is out of any of the items listed above, you can purchase them directly from Cable Matters using the following links:
- Cat6A Shielded Metal RJ45 Keystone Jacks, package of 6.
- RJ45 Cat6A Shielded Modular Plugs with Strain Relief Boots, package of 50.
- Wall Plate with 4-Port Keystone Jack Insert in White, package of 10.
Here is a printer cable to enable you to connect your computer to your printer in a hardwired way and then disable the WiFi on your printer
USB Extension Cable
Use a USB Extension Cable if your existing printer cable is not long enough to reach between your computer and printer. Ten-foot extension cable available from Amazon:
If ten feet of this Extension Cable is not long enough, purchase one or two additional Extension Cables and plug them into each other for an extra ten or twenty feet of portability within the room. You can also order a 32-foot USB extension cable from Amazon by clicking on the link below:
TV Sets Without Wi-Fi (Non-Smart TVs)
Here are three TV sets that are not “Smart”, meaning, they do not have the ability to stream Netflix, Hulu and other streaming content. They do not have those streaming services embedded within them, they do not have an Ethernet jack, and, most importantly, they do not have Wi-Fi.
The three Non-Smart TV sets are:
In addition, a great article, “Best Non-Smart TV (Summer 2022)”, was written by Sophia Miller on the blog, SmartHomePerfected (which has links to many “smart” devices that you would not want if you are trying to avoid radio frequency EMFs).
Sophia lists non-smart TVs that have the same resolution and features as smart TVs but without the ability to connect to the Internet, either with an Ethernet cable or WiFi. She lists them for security reasons for people who do not want any security breaches on their networks and devices in their homes. We want that feature to avoid the radio frequencies from WiFi and Bluetooth. Sophia lists several non-WiFi models including from Sceptre and LG. She discusses the differences between various non-EMF features such as resolution and display technology.
The link to her article is here.
Blu-ray Player for Internet TV without WiFi
This unit provides Internet-based TV (Netflix, Hulu, YouTube) to your TV set in a hardwired way. Plug an Ethernet cable into the Blu-ray player and an HDMI cable from the player to your TV set.
Then access the Blu-ray control settings using the on-screen prompts on your TV set. Go to Network and choose Hardwired. I have verified with my RF meter that the WiFi signal from the Blu-ray player is successfully turned off.
Roku Ultra Streaming Media Player
Older models of Apple TV and Roku Players were designed so that the WiFi stopped as soon as you plugged in an Ethernet cable.
Nowadays, Apple TV and Roku players have more than one WiFi transmitter, one for the network and the other that allows you to control the player directly from your iPhone or Android smart phone. That feature is called Device Connect on Roku Players. You can’t even connect an Ethernet cable to new Roku Express and Premiere models. They only work with WiFi. Only the Roku Ultra Player has an Ethernet data port and allows a hardwired connection to your router.
When we plug an Ethernet cable into Apple TV players, the WiFi no longer turns off. You need to plug the Apple TV player into a dedicated power strip and flip that off when you are not watching TV. You will also need to purchase a Signal Tamer from LessEMF and place that pouch over the Apple TV player to protect yourself from the WiFi that fills your room from the Apple TV player when it is on. Scroll down on the LessEMF website to purchase their heavy duty Signal Tamer pouch.
Among streaming players, we do have a workaround that provides a quality picture and the latest in streaming channels but without WiFi. That would be the Roku Ultra Player, linked to below (however, be careful to not order the Roku Ultra LT Player model). As mentioned, the Roku Ultra Player comes with both network WiFi and Device Connect WiFi. The network WiFi will shut off when an Ethernet cable is plugged in and the unit is synched up with your router. It doesn’t happen right away. That process can take a minute, but the network WiFi should automatically turn off when the player is synched to your router through the Ethernet cable.
The Device Connect WiFi, however, is more tricky to disable. First, you will need to use the Voice Remote that comes in the box with your Roku Ultra Player in order to set up your player and register an account. However, the Voice Remote must be synched with the Ultra Player to do this, which does not allow you to shut off the Device Connect WiFi.
In order to do this, you will need to purchase an Infra-Red (IR) remote from Amazon or another vendor in order to disable the Device Connect WiFi. The link to purchase a Roku IR Remote is in the next item. You will find steps to follow to un-pair the Voice Remote and power cycle the Ultra Player, and then turning to the IR Remote. These steps are found in the TVs and EMFs article on this website by clicking on the links below.
Then, it will be easy to disable the Device Connect feature through the prompts on your TV set and get rid of that second WiFi signal in the player. You can also use the IR Remote to control your Roku Player without experiencing bursts of RF when you use your remote to change channels or volume (as would happen if you used the Voice Remote that comes in the box, because it only operates through WiFi). (However, if you purchase an Ultra LT model, you will not be able to disable the Device Connect WiFi.)
To see the specific steps to disable Device Connect WiFi on your Roku Ultra Player with your IR Remote, go to my
TVs and EMFs article, then scroll down to the section, “How to Disable Device Connect Wi-Fi on Roku Ultra Players” (item 7 in the Table of Contents).
Purchase a Roku Ultra Streaming Media Player from Amazon by clicking on the text link or the image below (Again, do not purchase a Roku Ultra LT player):
Universal IR Remote Replacement for Roku Ultra Streaming Player
If you have a Roku Streaming Player with an Ethernet cable data port, such as the 4 and the Ultra Player (the newer Roku Express and Premiere models do not have this) and you want to turn off network WiFi and Device Connect WiFi, you can disable the network WiFi by plugging in an Ethernet cable and synching your Roku Player to your router. That will automatically shut off the network WiFi signal in the Roku Player. Be patient, as it may take a minute.
However, newer Roku Players, such as the 4 and the Ultra, will continue to emit WiFi from a second radio transmitter, allowing the Device Connect feature. This allows you to stream content directly to your Roku Player from your smart phone and to also control the Player from your smart phone, like a second remote. The problem is, you cannot disable the WiFi from this Device Connect feature with the Voice Enhanced Remote that comes with Roku’s Ultra Player.
Instead, you will need to use an Infra-Red (IR) remote to disable the Device Connect feature and get rid of that second WiFi signal. To learn more about this, read my TVs and EMFs article. Click here to see the specific section on how to disable the Device Connect WiFi.
Purchase an Infra-Red (IR) Remote Replacement for Roku Streaming Player from Amazon by clicking on the text link or the image below (Roku does not sell these as a standalone replacement model—they are made by third party manufacturers):
TV Sound Bars With Bluetooth that Can Be Disabled
I have tested a Vizio sound bar that had no WiFi or Bluetooth signal, model SB2820n-E0, linked to below. The sound bar connects to your TV through an optical cable, which is included in the box. Like all sound bars, these models do have Bluetooth, which you must enable to pair the sound bar with a portable device, such as your smart phone. However, if you don’t push the Bluetooth button and pair the sound bar with your smart phone, it appears that the Bluetooth signal does not transmit from these sound bars. At least, I did not measure any Bluetooth signal from the model SB2820n-E0 that I tested. Order it here:
If model SB2820n-E0 is no longer available, the closest available Vizio model to the one I tested is Model SB2920-C6, linked to below. The SB2920-C6 is available and appears to be identical to the preceding model, according to specs on Amazon’s page for this item. Order it here (I suggest you order a new model, not a used one):
You can purchase from a variety of corded telephone models available from Amazon by clicking here.
Be aware that not all models listed on that page are completely corded. In fact, always be sure to avoid a model that also has a cordless unit in the box, listed as “Cordless/Corded”. That means that besides having a corded handset (rather than a cordless handset) on the base unit, it also has a radio frequency transmitter inside the base unit.
Over-the-head Headset with Phone Plug
If you want to avoid holding a corded telephone handset up against your head to make calls on a corded telephone and want to be hands-free, then purchase this Arma Phone Headset.
For a hands-free over-the-head headset that plugs into a phone with a 2.5 mm jack, such as the corded telephone sold by LessEMF, try this model:
For a full list of links to hands-free over-the-head headsets, click here.
Cordless Telephones with Less RF/EMFs
I am reluctant to include these items on this list, because they are links to cordless telephones that do emit strong and unhealthy radio frequency (RF) EMF levels directly into your head when you use them to make or receive a call.
However, in the interest of being practical and realizing that some who read this information will continue to use cordless telephones, we want to follow the principle put forth by my profession that “any amount of reduction of EMFs is worth doing”. In that spirit, I provide here links to cordless telephone models by Gigaset in Germany with Eco Mode, which means lower RF levels when used. Gigaset used to sell cordless telephone models also with the Eco Mode+ feature that fully turned off the radio transmitter in the base unit when you ended the call and placed the handset back in its charging cradle on the base. However, that feature does not seem to be available any longer. The best we can do is an 80% reduction in RF from the base unit when on standby.
Most people do not know that the base unit of their cordless telephone constantly emits a very strong RF signal into the room and through the wall into adjoining rooms when on standby. I hope you at least don’t have your cordless phone base unit in your bedroom.
The strength of the radio frequency signals from the handset on all of Gigaset’s current cordless phone models does vary depending upon how close or far you are from the base when you are on a call, with the strength of the RF signal reducing when you are close. You can also set the base unit to emit 80% less RF than it normally would on the two models listed below. In the manual for the phone you purchase, look up Eco Mode. Follow instructions to enable the Eco Mode feature.
Again, we highly recommend that you use corded, not corded (or corded/cordless) landline telephones, but for those who insist on using cordless phones or who have family members who insist on using them, these models will reduce your and their overall RF exposure.
These Eco DECT cordless phones are NOT recommended for anyone who is electrically hypersensitive (EHS). Also, if you are EHS, we highly recommend that you do not use your cell phone when at home when you have the opportunity to use corded telephones and hardwired computers. See my article, Safer Use of Cell Phones on this website for more information.
Here are two models to choose from. The first is Gigaset’s C610A-L410 Cordless Phone. Click on the text link or the image below:
The second model, the Gigaset E560A – Cordless Phone for Seniors with Answering Machine, has larger numbers and, as stated in the description of the device, an answering machine:
VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) Digital Telephone Services
In order to avoid using your cell phone while home, thereby protecting you from excessive radio frequency EMFs, you can either order telephone service from your telephone company (AT&T, Frontier/Verizon, CenturyLink and others) or your cable company (Spectrum–the old Time Warner, Cox, Comcast, Charter, etc.). Then purchase corded, not cordless, telephones throughout the house, available above, or dust off your old corded telephones in the closet.
For less money than having a landline telephone line, you can also use a digital service called Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP. This is provided through a number of companies, including Magicjack, Vonage, Ooma and others (see below). These first three companies sell devices you can plug into the USB port on your computer with a telephone jack at the other end. You then plug in a telephone. Most people use a cordless phone base station and set up a wireless telephone network in the house. We suggest that you plug in corded telephones.
That device requires your computer to be on to make and receive telephone calls. These same manufacturers also make standalone devices that plug into an electrical outlet for power and then use an Ethernet cable to directly connect to your router, just as your computer does. That way, your computer can be off and you still have phone service. These standalone devices still have a telephone jack to plug your telephone into.
You can use a splitter that you plug into the phone jack on the standalone device so that you can plug one telephone into it for use in that room. Then plug a telephone cord into the other jack on the splitter and plug the other end of the telephone cord into a telephone wall jack in the room. That should put the dial tone on any telephone jack in any other room in the house, provided the wires are hooked up properly. Have a telephone repair person or a low voltage contractor help you with that.
Other companies also provide VoIP service through your computer (or tablet or smart phone). These include Facetime, Google Duo, Whats App, Skype and other programs. This can be done in a hardwired or wireless way depending upon how your computer, tablet and smart phone are connected to the Internet, with an Ethernet cable or wirelessly. Hardwired options for your computer, iPhone and iPad are discussed above.
To order a standalone VoIP phone system, order a magicJack Home 2019 VOIP Phone Adapter Portable Home and On-The-Go Digital Phone Service from Amazon below. This unit appears to not have WiFi (some standalone models from other VoIP manufacturers do). Unlimited calls to the US and Canada are free for the first year and $2-3/month thereafter. International calls are inexpensive (and free to other magicJack customers).
To order a standalone Ooma Telo VoIP Free Home VoIP Phone Service, click below. This Ooma unit appears to not have WiFi, although I cannot guarantee that. Choose this model if you don’t want to order the magicJack unit listed above. Check this Ooma VoIP unit with a Radio Frequency Meter to be sure it does not emit WiFi.
Safer Baby Monitors and Security Cameras
The first option to reduce potentially harmful radio frequency EMFs at the crib (and near the monitor that Mom has near her) or to avoid radio frequencies from a security camera is to use a D-Link Wireless HD Day/Night Network Surveillance Camera. The WiFi shuts off when you plug in an Ethernet cable. You will need to order a pair of Network Adapters, listed above, or run Ethernet cable to your baby’s bedroom or to the security camera to connect to your router and to the D-Link website.
Then go to the secure D-Link website on any laptop to see and hear your baby without any radio frequency EMFs near the crib. Be sure to also use an Ethernet cable to your laptop and turn off the WiFi on the computer.
The SmartNOVA Baby Monitor is a cordless camera and microphone that sends its signal wirelessly. However, the manufacturer is aware of EMFs and has set the signal strength very low. It is relatively safe at six feet and beyond. I would not recommend putting this monitor closer than six feet from the crib, or from Mom.
You can order the SmartNOVA Baby Monitor from Bellyarmor by clicking here.
To learn more about how and when to use these safer alternatives to wireless baby monitors, go to Healthy Baby Monitors and Surveillance Cameras.
The Triplett 9200B Clamp Meter allows you to measure current on metal grounding paths, such as water pipes (up to 1 inch) and TV cables. You will also be able to measure individual conductors within circuits, such as the hot, neutral and ground wire, as well as measure for net current on the whole circuit. This small clamp meter allows you to get into tight spaces, such as inside junction boxes and breaker panels.
For larger objects than the Triplett is able to wrap around, the Extech MA3110 True RMS 3000A AC Flex Clamp Meter also allows you to measure current on metal grounding paths, such as water pipes, both large and small, and TV cables.
Another option is the FLIR CM55 Flexible 10″ Clamp Meter. This 10″ flexible clamp meter also allows you to measure current on metal grounding paths, such as water pipes, both large and small, and TV cables. As with the Extech MA3010, this FLIR CM55 flexible clamp meter is for larger objects than the Triplett is able to wrap around.
Remote Electric Outlet Shut-Off Switch
The BN-LINK Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch allows you to remotely shut off an electric appliance that is plugged into a hard-to-reach outlet. This eliminates voltage in plastic AC power cords to bedside lamps and other appliances within six to eight feet of where you sleep. Use to shut off the lamps at the outlet without having to reach down to a plugged-in switch. The following item provides one remote control outlet switch.
BN-LINK makes a package that contains five remote control outlet switches that you then control from two bedside remotes. There will be a different on/off button on the two remotes you get in the box for each of the five remote control outlet switches.
Etekcity also makes a package that contains three remote control outlet switches that you then control from one bedside remote. There will be a different on/off button on the one remote you get in the box for each of the three remote control outlet switches.
To remotely shut off a wall-mounted Smart TV set, such as a model in your bedroom that has WiFi that cannot be disabled, use the following Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch. It has a short cord that allows you to plug it into the recessed outlet found behind many wall-mounted TVs. It then has three sockets at the other end of the short cord that hang down flat behind the wall-mounted TV. You can plug up to three devices to be shut off at night at once, such as the TV and an Apple TV device or Amazon Firestick. (The Etekcity remote outlet switch shown above will not fit into this recessed wall outlet.) (Also, Sony brand smart TVs that I have evaluated do allow you to disable WiFi when you synch up the Sony Smart TV to an Ethernet cable in Wired mode for streamed content, such as Netflix. You therefore don’t need to shut off a Sony Smart TV when not using it in order to avoid WiFi in the room.)
Here is a Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch with a ninety-degree plug that turns the cord downward, right at the wall. This allows the plug, cord and switched outlets to lay flat between a mattress and wall. It has two sockets at the other end of the short cord that hang down flat. You can therefore shut off up to two devices at once when you sleep.
Manual Electric Outlet Shut-Off Switches
You can use a plug-in switch at outlets, if you can reach them, to eliminate voltage in plastic AC power cords to bedside lamps and other appliances within six to eight feet of where you sleep. Leave the lamp switch on and turn off the light at the outlet using a plug-in switch. You will have to reach down to the outlet to manually shut off the switch and lamp each night. These are available at local hardware stores or from Amazon at:
If you need a grounded, three-pronged shut-off switch, you can order one of the following items:
Three-to-one “Tap Cube” Outlet Adapter
If you need to plug more than two devices into an outlet, you can increase the number of places to insert plugs, whether grounded (two-pronged) or ungrounded (three-pronged), by using the following item:
Here is a five-pack of grounded tap cubes:
Outlet Circuit Tester
This device allows you to check for the presence of proper grounding in any outlet. The center amber light tells you the circuit breaker is on and the outlet is live. The outer amber light tells you the outlet is properly grounded.
That outer amber light needs to be on and as bright as the middle amber light. If the outer light is dim, the ground is loose and is as good as not being there. You need to have an electrician repair a loose or non-existent ground.
Making sure your outlet is properly grounded keeps electric field EMFs down when using your
laptop or desktop computer (for which you always need a three-pronged, grounded plug–see item above entitled, “Adapter for Mac Laptop to Ground the AC Power Cord,” if you have a Mac laptop and have lost your grounded AC power cord, and my article on Safer Use of Computers in the section on Electric Field EMFs).
Non-Contact Voltage Tester
This device allows you to know that the cord or outlet you are testing is live and has 120 Volts on it. Live voltage at 120 Volts causes AC electric field EMF exposure, even when the load, such as a lamp, is turned off.